Ida is a certified aesthetician (graduate of Marvel School of Beauty), offering home-based services since 1994. Ida provides various holistic services; she graduated from Zanqara’s Holistica Skin Care’s Dermatician course in 1994, which required her to understand homeopathic remedies.
Vitamin C is a widely recognized nutrient for skin health and general wellness. L-ascorbic acid is the outside shell of Vitamin C, commonly found in supplements and skincare products. It’s known for its mild exfoliating properties. This article will demonstrate the differences between L-ascorbic acid and natural Vitamin C, explore the manufacturing processes of L-ascorbic acid, and discuss how the body utilizes each for nutritional purposes. We’ll also dive into the antioxidant and pro-oxidant properties of Vitamin C and its stability in topical skincare applications. By the end of this article, you’ll understand why some companies avoid using L-ascorbic acid in skincare despite its popularity.
Natural vitamin C components
Water-soluble Vitamin C has antioxidant properties. Natural Vitamin C consists of L-ascorbic acid, flavonoids, rutin (quercetin), vitamins J, K, and P Factor, and eight copper-based enzymes, such as tyrosinase, in its core, all of which are essential for various bodily functions.
L-ascorbic acid: A simplified vitamin C component
Many forms of L-ascorbic acid exist, and its use is to replicate Vitamin C in supplements and skincare products. However, it represents just the outer shell of natural Vitamin C. While L-ascorbic acid shares some of Vitamin C’s antioxidant benefits, it lacks some bioactive components, so it doesn’t mimic the health benefits of Vitamin C derived from whole foods.
The role of complete vitamin C in the body
Complete Vitamin C is vital in collagen production for skin, tendons, ligaments, joints, and bones. It also supports wound healing, blood vessel health, and adrenal gland function. In addition, it protects cellular fluids from free radical damage, detoxifies heavy metals, and resupplies Vitamin E with electrons, helping maintain cellular integrity. The human body requires Vitamin C for over 300 metabolic processes. A Vitamin C-rich diet is essential since we cannot produce or store Vitamin C.
Skin benefits of vitamin C
Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles
Improves skin texture and tone
Protects against environmental damage
Boosts collagen production
Factors that reduce vitamin C in the skin
Aging
Excessive UV light or pollutant exposure
Stress, smoking, and alcoholism
Viral infections or fever.
How does the body use vitamin C and L-ascorbic acid?
Vitamin C and L-ascorbic acid are antioxidants that have different metabolic pathways. Natural Vitamin C recycles in the body through the Redox Cycle, where oxidized Vitamin C (dehydroascorbic acid, DHA) converts back to its active form. DHA efficiently penetrates cells and reconverts into active ascorbic acid with help from glutathione and NADPH. Our body recycles and produces reactive oxygen species (ROS) to maintain the antioxidant properties of Vitamin C.
In contrast, synthetic L-ascorbic acid, commonly found in supplements, doesn’t recycle as effectively. Excessive use of synthetic L-ascorbic acid can lead to oxidative stress, depleting essential nutrients like glutathione and disturbing mineral balances, particularly copper metabolism.
The Fenton Reaction occurs when free Iron (Fe²⁺) reacts with hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) to produce hydroxyl radicals, which cause oxidative damage. Ceruloplasmin, a copper-binding enzyme made in the liver, converts Fe²⁺ to Fe³⁺and reduces free Iron’s availability to trigger the Fenton Reaction.
Excess synthetic L-ascorbic acid consumption disturbs ceruloplasmin’s function, impairs copper and iron regulation, and elevates oxidative stress, iron buildup, and potentially fatal Fenton reactions.
Please note different oxidative stress mechanisms occur in Redox Cycling and Fenton Reaction.
Improper iron regulation (which ceruloplasmin is responsible for) can increase free Fe²⁺ levels, leading to the damaging Fenton Reaction oxidative stress results, which may impair ceruloplasmin or other iron-regulating mechanisms. Iron metabolism and oxidative stress influence each other indirectly.
L-ascorbic acid production
China produces most of the world’s L-ascorbic acid. They extract glucose from high-glucose corn syrup or other starchy raw materials and, via chemical reactions, convert it into sorbitol, which is oxidized to sorbose by bacteria. After some chemical and acetone treatments, it converts into L-ascorbic acid.
Possible causes of oxidative stress
Imbalance in redox recycling: If ascorbic acid oxidation to dehydroascorbic acid exceeds the body’s ability to regenerate ascorbic acid. Dehydroascorbic acid accumulates and breaks down into irreversible compounds like 2-3 diketogulonic and oxalic acid. Dehydroascorbic acid accumulation causes oxidative stress, reduced antioxidant properties, and degradation if it is not efficiently recycled back to ascorbic acid.
Nutrient depletion: Glutathione and NADPH depletion could prevent the regeneration of ascorbic acid and lead to oxidative stress.
Morely, Robbins’ theory suggests that excess synthetic ascorbic acid C (l-ascorbic acid) supplementation could create mineral imbalances that promote oxidative stress.
Excess synthetic L-ascorbic acid supplementation contraindications
Considerations of iron absorption
L-ascorbic acid supplementation can increase iron absorption from foods, which may be dangerous for individuals with hemochromatosis, where excess Iron builds up in the body. Such individuals should avoid Vitamin C supplements. It decreases free Iron in the blood due to the Fenton reaction, which causes anemia.
The Kidney Foundation is concerned about elevated oxalic acid levels caused by vitamin C, which can increase kidney stones and harm the kidneys.
It increases the risk of periodontal disease, cataract development, atherosclerosis, and cardiovascular disease.
Pregnant women are prone to have underweight newborns.
Pro-oxidant effects of topical L-ascorbic acid
Vitamin C irritates the skin’s normal flora and can stimulate acne, contributing to skin irritation. When oxidized, it breaks down collagen and elastin.
Interactions with copper peptides
Copper peptides are very reactive, some advise to wait at least 15 minutes after applying l-ascorbic acid to avoid oxidative stress, while others suggest completely avoiding them.
Metal ingredients and products causing Fenton reaction
Copper and Iron are reactive in cosmetics, skincare, toiletries, makeup, sunscreen, and polluted air and water. Phosphates contain trace amounts of Iron and Copper.
If, after reading all this, you still want to use l-ascorbic acid!
Synthetic L-ascorbic acid in skincare
Topical L-ascorbic acid is effective for brightening skin and reducing signs of aging, but it is also unstable. Its potency decreases when exposed to air, heat, or light. Consumers should not use above a 20% solution of soluble L-ascorbic acid with a pH of 2-3.5 for optimal absorption. Sensitive skin types should be tested with lower concentrations to avoid irritated skin.
Essential skincare tips for L-ascorbic acid use
Ingredients to avoid: Do not combine Retinol with Vitamin C- this can lead to skin irritation. Do not combine with AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids), as these can destabilize Vitamin C and may cause irritation.
Timing: L-ascorbic acid nighttime application minimizes degradation. Use sunscreen with it during the day to protect against environmental damage.
Stabilization: L-ascorbic acid is more stabile when mixed with antioxidants like Vitamin E and ferulic acid.
Storage: Store L-ascorbic acid products in a cool, dark place or refrigerator to extend their shelf life.
Oxidized synthetic L-ascorbic acid
Discard it after two to four weeks, when it turns orange or brown this indicates a loss of effectiveness and the potential to cause harm.
Common foods high in vitamin C
Eating fresh foods like bell peppers, strawberries, blackcurrants, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, potatoes, cantaloupe, persimmons, and citrus fruits is the best way to acquire vitamin C.
Cooking reduces vitamin C levels. Its water-solubility raises the potential to lose unconsumed seeped vitamins.
High food sources of Vitamin C are acerola cherries, some rose hips varieties, and greens like amaranth, goosefoot, pokeweed, wild leek, and watercress. Citrus fruit peels have more Vitamin C than the fruit itself. For nature lovers, forage wild currants, elderberries, gooseberries, and baked apple berries.
Recommended vitamin C intake
Adult men and women need 100–120 mg/day of vitamin C. Consumers who eat appropriate amounts of fruit and vegetables daily get adequate vitamin C. The body excretes unrequired vitamin C from its elimination system, so we do not need to take mega doses.
Suggested forms of complete vitamin C
(People sensitive to corn should look for whole-food vitamin C alternatives)
Below are affiliate links to vitamin C supplements derived from actual foods which are available on Amazon.
Conclusion
Vitamin C is vital for over 300 bodily functions, including antioxidant defence and collagen production. However, it’s crucial to differentiate between natural Vitamin C and synthetic L-ascorbic acid. While L-ascorbic acid is in many supplements and skincare, it doesn’t offer the full benefits of complete Vitamin C, which includes a broader range of benefits. Excessive use of synthetic L-ascorbic acid can lead to oxidative stress and mineral imbalances.
L-ascorbic acid ratings of many products are between one and ten on The Environmental Working Group (EWG) website. The EWG offers concerns over their safety and efficacy. Limited research on the effectiveness of topical vitamin C formulations exists due to the inability to obtain optimal conditions due to its weak skin permeability, potential interactions with metals, and instability in light, heat, and air. Therefore, it’s best to obtain vitamin C from whole food sources or supplements that use whole food vitamin C rather than relying on synthetic alternatives in skincare and supplements. Some skincare companies will not offer vitamin C serums because of their instability and possible interactions with reactive ingredients such as metals in water and air -this alone should make you think.
To learn more, here is some related information:
Ida Fanelli, Aesthetician, Reflexologist, IPL Technician
Ida is a certified aesthetician (graduate of Marvel School of Beauty), offering home-based services since 1994. Ida provides various holistic services; she graduated from Zanqara’s Holistica Skin Care’s Dermatician course in 1994, which required her to understand homeopathic remedies. Ida has been a certified reflexologist since 1993 (graduate of D’Arcy Lane Institute). She has also been practicing Healing Energy since 1998 and has added the Ion Cleanse Foot Detox to her therapies. In 2012, Ida became a certified Sharplight Laser (IPL) Technician. She enjoys learning new techniques which can benefit her clients. In 2019, she received certification from the Center for Pain and Stress Research (CPSR.) She can now speed up the healing of scars and help with pain caused by surgical scars to her list of specialties.
She enjoys continuing her education in the complementary health field. Many can testify that Ida is committed to ensuring her clients access adequate and affordable quality service and treatment.
Beyond her many years of experience as a holistic practitioner, Ida draws on her 12 years of experience as a hospital laboratory technologist in Microbiology and Biochemistry.
References:
Thyroid Nation: Balance Copper with Ceruloplasmin for Thyroid Health
Industrial production of L-ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) Wikipedia
Low Energy? Feel Like Sh**? Consider Getting to the “Root Cause” with Morley Robbins
The Root Cause of Fatigue with Morley Robbins: Episode 2 The Myths Around Vitamins C and A
George Brewer Risk of Copper and Iron Toxicity during Aging in Humans PMID 19968254
Is L-Ascorbic Acid Better Than Synthetic Vitamin C for Skin Health?
Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications
Two Faces of Vitamin C—Antioxidative and Pro-Oxidative Agent
Two Faces of Vitamin C—Antioxidative and Pro-Oxidative Agent
For the best skin, I don’t take vitamin supplements except for one.
The Scientific Papers Supporting Vitamin C Serum’s Skin Benefits are Flawed
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